This isn’t a weekend for ticking off tourist sites – you’ve probably done the cathedral already, or you’ll save it for another trip. This is about long walks that earn you a proper lunch, quiet mornings in unexpected museums, and the satisfaction of coming back from the cold to somewhere genuinely warm.

Two days. Two walks. Several excellent pubs. Here’s how to do it.

Saturday: Museums, then miles

Morning: The Beaney and the Romans

Start late enough that you’re not rushing breakfast. Canterbury’s city centre is small, so you can afford to wander without a map – down St Peter’s Street, through Mercery Lane, past the Buttermarket. You’re looking for The Beaney House of Art & Knowledge on High Street.

The Beaney is one of those places that’s better than it sounds. Yes, it’s free. Yes, it’s a bit eclectic. But that’s the point. You’ll find everything from taxidermy to Turner sketches, local archaeology to contemporary art. The building itself – red brick, Victorian Gothic – is worth the visit. In winter, it’s warm, quiet, and the perfect place to kill an hour without feeling like you’re “doing” tourism.

From there, walk five minutes to the Canterbury Roman Museum on Butchery Lane. This one’s underground, built around the remains of a Roman townhouse. You’ll see original mosaics, hypocaust heating systems (the Roman version of underfloor heating), and enough context to understand what Canterbury was like 2,000 years ago. It’s atmospheric, especially in winter when you’re stepping down into the warmth and the low lighting makes everything feel a bit more dramatic.

Lunch: Keep it light. You’ve got a long walk ahead. Grab a soup or a sandwich somewhere central – there are plenty of cafés near the High Street that won’t slow you down.

Afternoon: The River Stour to Chartham

This is the walk that makes the weekend. It’s flat, scenic, and takes you from the city centre deep into the Kent countryside without needing a car.

Start: Head to Westgate Gardens, just off St Peter’s Street. You’ll see the medieval Westgate towers, walk through them and the gardens are immediately on your left. Follow the River Stour path heading west out of town.

For the first mile, you’re still in Canterbury’s orbit – neat paths, dog walkers, the occasional bench. Then the city falls away. The path opens into Hambrook Marshes: flat water meadows, reed beds, the river winding slow and brown beside you. In winter, it’s stark and beautiful. You might see herons, kingfishers if you’re lucky, and perhaps nobody else.

Keep following the river. The path is well-surfaced (part of the National Cycle Route 18), so even after rain it’s walkable. You’re heading for Chartham, a small village about 3.5 miles from Westgate Gardens. It takes roughly 90 minutes at a steady pace, longer if you stop to watch the water or take photos.

Chartham: When you reach the village, you’ve earned a rest. The Artichoke is a 14th-century timber-framed pub right in the centre – low beams, open fires, the kind of place that feels like it’s been there forever because it has. Get a pint. Sit by the fire. Let your feet recover.

The clever bit: Don’t walk back. Chartham has a train station (a 5-minute walk from the pub). Trains to Canterbury run regularly and take 6 minutes. It’s a tiny, old-fashioned station, and the journey back feels like a reward rather than a chore. You’ve done the walk, seen the countryside, and now you’re watching it all slide past the window while someone else does the work.

Evening: Back in Canterbury

You’ll be back in the city by late afternoon. If you want another pint, try The Black Griffin or The Thomas Tallis – both are small, traditional, and good for settling in. Otherwise, find somewhere for dinner (Canterbury has plenty of options), have a wander if the evening’s clear, and call it a night. You’ve walked four miles. You’ve earned an early bed.

Sunday: Woods and a village pub

Morning: Blean Woods

Sunday is about getting into proper woodland. Blean Woods is one of the largest areas of ancient forest in southern England – over 11 square miles of oak, hornbeam, and sweet chestnut, with enough trails that you can walk for hours without retracing your steps.

Getting there: It’s a 10-minute drive north of Canterbury, or take a bus towards Whitstable and get off at Blean village or Rough Common. The main RSPB car park is off Rough Common Road (postcode CT2 9DD).

The walk: There are several waymarked trails. The black trail is the longest – about 8 miles, taking you through dense woodland, open heath, and past quiet ponds. In winter, the trees are bare, so you get long views through the forest. The paths can be muddy, but they’re well-maintained. You’ll see (and hear) woodpeckers, possibly deer, and if you’re there early enough, not many other people.

The Blean is managed for conservation, so parts of it are grazed by longhorn cattle and recently re-introduced Bison! You might spot them in the clearings. It’s quiet, atmospheric, and feels miles from anywhere, even though you’re 20 minutes from the city centre.

How long: Give yourself 2-3 hours depending on your pace. There’s no rush. This is the last big stretch of the weekend.

Lunch: The pub finale

After a morning in the woods, you want somewhere with a fire, a Sunday roast, and no reason to leave quickly. You’ve got options:

The Hare (Blean, 5 minutes from Blean Woods): The closest pub to the woods. And a little gem. A warm fire in winter and a broad menu to cater for any discerning foodie.

The Duke William (Ickham, 15 minutes east): A classic Kentish village pub – low ceilings, wood burners, local ales, and a menu built around seasonal ingredients. Ickham itself is tiny and picturesque, so if you’ve got time, have a wander round the village green before you eat. Book before you go though, as this place is popular. And rightly so.

The Rose Inn (Wickhambreaux, 20 minutes east): Often called one of the prettiest villages in Kent, and the pub sits right on the green. It’s small, intimate, and perfect if you want somewhere quieter and more romantic.

Pick one. Arrive hungry. Stay as long as you like.

Afternoon: Wind down

If you’ve got time before heading home, drift back into Canterbury for a final coffee or a browse round the independent shops on Palace Street. But don’t force it. If lunch ran long and you’re full and tired, that’s fine. The weekend’s done its job.

Practical notes

Footwear: Both walks are flat, but winter means mud. Wear boots or at least waterproof trainers.

Trains: Canterbury has two stations – East and West. Both are well-connected to London (St Pancras is under an hour on the high-speed service). Chartham station is on the same line.

Buses: There are lots of buses that run from Canterbury to Blean and the surrounding villages. They’re frequent and cheap.

Timing: Winter daylight is short. Start your walks by late morning so you’re not finishing in the dark.

Booking: If you’re planning Sunday lunch at a popular pub (especially The Duke William), book a table. Winter Sundays get busy.

A different way to see the river

If walking the Stour makes you want to see more of it, Canterbury Historic River Tours run guided boat trips year-round, including winter. They leave from the historic King’s Bridge on the high street and take you through the heart of the city from the water. In winter, they provide blankets to keep you warm while you drift past medieval buildings, under low bridges, and along stretches of the river you can’t reach on foot. It’s a completely different perspective on the city – slower, quieter, and surprisingly atmospheric even in the cold. Worth doing on the same weekend, or saving for your next visit.